Slow-cooked lamb shoulder is the kind of weekend project that, once you have done it three or four times and internalised the rhythm, becomes part of the rotation that anchors regular hosting. Six hours of mostly unattended cooking produces the kind of dish that justifies the commitment of the kitchen, and the leftovers run for several days afterward.
What you need
A bone-in lamb shoulder of approximately five pounds; a generous quantity of garlic; rosemary; lemon; anchovies; olive oil; salt; black pepper; a substantial roasting vessel with a tight-fitting lid; patience.
The day before
The day before serving, score the fat side of the shoulder in a crosshatch pattern. Make a paste of crushed garlic (six cloves), chopped rosemary (a generous palmful), three or four anchovies, the zest of a lemon, several pinches of kosher salt, and enough olive oil to bind the paste. Rub the paste over the shoulder, working it into the scored fat. Refrigerate, uncovered, overnight.
The morning of
Bring the shoulder out two hours before cooking to come to room temperature. Heat the oven to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the shoulder fat-side up in the roasting vessel; pour in roughly an inch of water, white wine, or stock; cover tightly and put in the oven.
The patient cook
The shoulder cooks for approximately six hours at 300 degrees, mostly unattended. After about four hours, check the liquid level; add more if needed to prevent the bottom from drying out. After five hours, remove the lid for the final hour to brown the surface.
The finish
When the shoulder is done, the meat should yield to a fork; the bone should pull cleanly. Rest the shoulder for at least twenty minutes before serving. Pull the meat off the bone in large pieces; spoon over the pan juices.
The serve
Serve with a starch that absorbs the pan juices — flatbread, soft polenta, or simple roasted potatoes. A green salad with sharp vinaigrette balances the richness. The wine should be substantial; a hearty red from a place that makes hearty reds works best.
The leftovers
The leftovers run for several days. Cold lamb sandwiches with sharp mustard the next day. The pulled meat folded into pasta with tomatoes and rosemary the day after. The bone goes into stock at the end of the week.
